切工

钻石的价值还体现在它无与伦比的美丽。钻石失去了闪闪发光的特点,便只是一颗好 看的宝石。一颗钻石的颜色和净度两个主要影响光辉的因素,但其切工则改变了它的 外观,使其由微光到闪闪发光。

钻石切工指的是原石的打磨,以显示其许多切面。钻石所显示出的光辉强度和美丽通 过熟练的钻石刀工的专业知识显现出来。匠工们勤勉地打磨钻石,一次能够打磨出钻 石的一个切面。理想的比例,完整及对称是理想的刀工。对称性差将导致光线出入钻 石方向错误。

切工指的是钻石的反射性质,并且也是 4Cs 的最重要的地方。

切工质量按照以下分级:

  • 理想切工
  • 优质切工
  • 非常好切工
  • 好切工
  • 清晰切工
  • 差的切工

打磨过的钻石以及原石

钻石质量的四种属性(4C’s)都很重要。然而,由于人们可以自行完善单一属性,钻石 的切工完成时必须要耐心和细心。当你考虑要对每颗钻石投入多大的专注与关注时候, 这是很令人吃惊的。

钻石的切工直接联系到其他特性的质量。钻石如何切割将影响到钻石的克拉重。它的 几何比例将会影响到钻石颜色。而打磨艺术可以帮助除去外部瑕疵,因此很自然地提 高了钻石的净度。

切工与制造

没有两颗原石能够完全精确相同。切割一颗钻石背后的理论是如何最好地将任何原石 雕刻成完美的产品的技术。当然,切工是预先安排好钻石的雕刻平面的。因为通过切 工,可以创造出完整的产品,因此切面安排的专业性,在业内指的是钻石的“制造”。

白色钻石在打磨滚轮上

人们通常混淆,切工切出石头的形状。然而,即使它们关系密切,它们并不是完全相 同的。钻石切工指的是除了钻石的形状外,还有塑造钻石的风格。风格的塑造,包括 不同形式的对称性,打磨以及许多切面间的几何比,或者说是制造。任何钻石的形状 可以有不同的钻石切割。风格既是科学又是一门艺术。

上图展示了两枚梨形钻石。左边的钻石有圆边花式切,而右边则是梯形切割。

钻石的深度

钻石的切割对整体的外形影响很大。事实上,如果一张完整的证书靠一颗钻石来授予, 切割的等级则包括在许多钻石特性列表中。伴随着不同维度的钻石,钻石的深度在整 体外形上也是起着重要作用。

上图特别展示了影响钻石外观的钻石深度。从左到右:0.45 克拉的钻石有 28%深度, 1.24 克拉的钻石有 46%深度,0.56 克拉钻石有 58%深度,以及 1.14 克拉有 70%深度。

无色钻石中,由于其目标是尽可能保持无色,光线存留在钻石中的时间必须缩减。然 而,花式彩钻则是光线存留在钻石切面中越长,颜色显示越多,也更吸引人。

决定形状

首先,钻石原石分类是八面体或者十二面体三角形状。然后,切工必须研究原石,确 保他精确理解钻石的内部情况。一旦他觉得熟悉了钻石,他便可以决定钻石原石可以 雕琢的形状。记住市场价值,然后他开始他的制造阶段,尽可能地产出最有价值的钻 石。

切工标记原石

普通钻石形状

钻石形状指的是成品钻石的几何形状。过去切割钻石的两种主要风格是“圆形明亮式” 和“花式形状”。现在,这两种风格产生了许多变种。然而,其原理念依旧存在。

我应该选择哪种形状

花式彩钻最一般的花式形状是放射状和垫子状。白色钻石的目标是集中颜色显示以及 钻石的光辉或闪光。而花式彩钻的目标是专注于体现钻石颜色和强度。

放射状和垫子状以吸收光的能力著称,通常在 GIA 中强度等级是比较高的。因此,在 选择钻石的形状时它们被认为是“稳妥的赌注”。同时,这些形状在切面安排上,瑕 疵可能会比较不明显。其他形状比如祖母绿和王妃则是比较罕见的,因为它们的形状 比较难以使钻石保持颜色。祖母绿切割方式实际上有时会使钻石的颜色“消逝”。然 而,如果切工打算制造出花式祖母绿彩钻,并且有着高水平的颜色强度,该钻石的价 值将会大大提升。

垫子状与放射状黄钻

祖母绿形状的粉钻

花式形状的切面极少是对称的。事实上,许多花式形状包括拉长和不对称切面。每个 花式切面都有它们自己的独特的特性。

日子一久,便有了许多其他形状并且市面上也可以看到。这些比较不普遍的花式形状 可能会有点不太受欢迎,但它们始终充满吸引力。切工是钻石最具鉴赏属性的,因为 钻石如何切割以及打磨直接影响到钻石的发光程度和光辉。

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I have bought several coloured diamonds from Northern Cross Diamonds.  I have found that Northern Cross gets me the best prices -- even when the diamonds come from another vendor and are listed with the other vendors at a higher price.  Stephen Mitanidis has spent hours of his time educating me on coloured diamonds and helping me to choose diamonds that have the best investment potential.  He has also allowed me to trade coloured diamonds that I own for coloured diamonds that I want and has assured me that Northern Cross will help me to sell my coloured diamonds if I choose to do so. If you buy a coloured diamond, I recommend that you consider showing it to your family members and friends. Most of them will be impressed with how it looks and might want to seize the opportunity to buy one or more before the value of coloured diamonds appreciates further.


Read MoreDavid P.
Toronto, ON

My husband and I chose NCD to assist us in finding the perfect engagement ring that would compliment my style. We mostly dealt with Stephen who was very knowledgeable and really took the time to listen to what I was looking for and offered a really great selection of options to choose from. Thank you Stephen and NCD; I couldn't be any happier with my brand new canary yellow diamond ring. You wouldn't believe the compliments and interest that people give it. I just love it!! Thank you again for everything!


Read MoreMaria M.
Bolton, Canada

For several months I had considered investing in Fancy Colored Diamonds. I heard all the negative jargon about unscrupulous people in the diamond business and how you could be taken to the cleaners, sort of speak.  However, I called Northern Cross Diamonds and spoke to Stephen who is the owner. My experience with him from the early process to the actual purchase of a Fancy Colored Diamond from him was quite a journey.  He urged me before buying the diamond to do my own due diligence by comparing the price and quality. Needless to say I did not find one of like shape, color, clarity or price that would have changed my decision. If you would like to speak to me directly for more information you can get my telephone number from Northern Cross.


Read MoreAllan C.
Mississauga, Canada

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